Vol.2 "BENGAL STRIPE"

[Bengal Stripe]

The Bengali stripes became popular in the UK in the 1800s, but were already mentioned in East India around 1680.
As you can see from the name, its roots lie in the Bengal region.

This stripe was also said to have been worn by the Bengal Lancers, a British Indian regiment, when they were off duty in the late 1800s and early 1900s.
It is said that classic Bengali stripes were made to be casual during everyday off-time hours, and to be worn smartly at mountainous clubs such as Chittagong and Sylhet.
The fabric was also found in Bengali markets and was also placed on ships carrying goods to European coasts.

It is confirmed in the photos that the regimental uniforms had striped patterns, but most were used in uniforms, especially for turbans and cummerbands (and bagpipes too).
This was inspired by generations of local fabric patterns.

●Bengal Lancers

It refers to numerous regiments of the British Indian army.
The 1st Cavalry Regiment (Skinner's Horse) is an Indian cavalry regiment that belonged to the British Indian army before independence.

1803
It began when he was raised as Skinners Horse as an irregular cavalry regiment serving the East India Company.
It was later renamed the 1st Bengal Lancers. This regiment became (and remains) one of the oldest cavalry regiments of the Indian Armored Forces.

1803
There were two Indian cavalry regiments raised by Colonel James Skinner.
It is the 1st Bengal Lancers and the 3rd Skinners Horse.

1922
When the Indian army was reduced, it was merged and became Skinner's Horse (1st Duke of York's Own Cavalry).
After that, until India's independence became the 1st Duke of York's Own Lancers (Skinner's Horse).


●Bengali Textile

Today's Bangladesh, particularly the Dhaka region, which runs from Maymensin in the north to Balisar in the south, has been the world's most precious and exquisite hand-woven cotton fabric center for centuries.
Merchants from all over the world have come to buy the highly regarded cotton and silk fabrics produced by the common people of this region.

In Bengal, many types and varieties of fabrics were produced based on cotton, silk and blended yarn, whether for self-consumption or export.

It has a history of high-quality fabrics, mainly cotton, and rich fabrics, making it a well-known place around the world. The tradition of high-quality fabric making dates back to ancient times and continues to this day.
There are records that even before Christ was born, textiles from this region were exported to Rome, and muslin fabrics are particularly well known.

India has a long history of producing and trading a wide range of plain and patterned fabrics, including cotton and silk.
According to Prasannan Parthasarathi and Giorgio Riello.
Between 1200 and 1800 AD, "most of the cotton that traveled around the world originated in the Indian subcontinent, a major production area of ​​cotton."
(The Spinning World:A Global History of Cotton Textiles, 1200-1850)

●To Europe

The first Europeans to bring back textiles directly from other parts of India, such as Bengal, were Portuguese in the early 1500s.
Pilar de Laval, who traveled to Bengal in the early 17th century,
"No one (Bengal) residents, both men and women, are made of cotton, cloth, silk, and all the needlework, such as embroidery, is wonderful and skillful, and there is nothing more beautiful than the small stitching," he said.

●The British East India Company

The Netherlands and the UK also participated in the Indian Ocean trade since the early 1600s, but their textile trade was initially centered around inter-Asian trade, where they bought Indian textile products and exchanged them for Indonesian spices and other Asian products.

When British merchants began to buy Indian silk and calico and bring it back to their home country, a "national transformation" was carried out.
Every aspect of British life has become entangled with Indian stuff. In 1664, more than 250,000 calicoes were imported to England.
There was also almost equal demand for Bengal silk, silk tafetta and plain white cotton muslin.

Until the mid-17th century, England was an ordinary place when it came to clothing, textiles and fashion. However, this situation has changed rapidly since the second half of the century.

The main players in that change are India, first Gujarat, then Madras, and then Bengal.
The British East India Company's voyage to Asia brought back convenient things like spices and textiles to the UK, helping to turn the relatively boring place into something more exciting.

◉1607
The British East India Company first visited the Indian subcontinent in Gujarat.
For about 30 years, this area has been the main supplier of Indian textile products by the East India Company.

◉1640
Based in Madras, South India, another important base has been added to the textile supplier.

◉ Around the 1660s
The third base was Bengal, which became its most important base, and where the company began purchasing textiles. Initially, the proportion of Bengal was very low, but gradually increased, becoming the main supply of textile products needed by the East India Company.

◉1725
Bengal's contribution to the East India Company's textile exports was greater than the sum of the other two centres, which continued throughout the 18th century. In other words, a significant amount of Indian textiles exported to the UK came from Bengal.

The large amount of Indian fabric imported by the East India Company was not only consumed in British fashion and everyday life, but also became a valuable trading currency. Some of the fabrics brought to the UK were consumed, while others were re-exported to all over the world to purchase slaves in Africa. However, it is clear that most of the re-exported textiles to Africa are from Gujarat, or in part from Madras, but if you look at just the volume and proportion of imports from Bengal, UK re-exporting Indian textiles to Africa should have included elements from Bengal. For example, between 1720 and 1740, 30-40% of Indian textiles imported by the East India Company were known to have been re-exported to Africa.

◉1750-1800
In 1750, global manufacturing output, including China and India, accounted for nearly 57%, with India itself accounting for almost a quarter.
India's global share in 1800 had already fallen below a fifth, less than a tenth in 1860, and less than 3% in 1880.

●The development of the British cotton industry

India's global share in 1800 had already fallen below a fifth, less than a tenth in 1860, and less than 3% in 1880.
In addition, India's share of global manufacturing output fell sharply in the half-century of 1750-1800, before factory-led industrialization took hold in the UK.
　
The British cotton industry developed and became popular in the 1760s and 1830s.

Before that, wool fabrics, or the wool industry, were popular. The reason why this has replaced the cotton industry is the emergence of cotton stockings and the development of manufacturing technology, but the biggest factor is the trend of calico printing.

Kalico is Indian cotton fabric, and calico prints with colorful patterns became popular in women's fashion, and fabrics were imported from India and dyed domestically.

However, due to the opposition from wool fabrics, imports have been restricted, and the sharp rise in demand for cotton has led to more efficient production.
The invention of cotton spinning technology was necessary, and the Crafts Promotion Association received a prize.